Shkodër has a sedate edge where locals go about their business in a leisurely fashion. It has that comforting feeling of having arrived home, maybe owing to be the fact most of Albania is a difficult country to travel around given the terrain. I luxuriated in the Grand Hotel Europa and was received cordially by a waiter who served David Beckham. His amiable presence and openness coaxed me into thinking I was more nearer the boarder of Greece than the Capital of snarling traffic, Tirana.
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